Gelati, Motsameta and Bagrati: the three that are worth it

Kutaisi's reputation rests on three buildings, and they are close enough that people try to do all of them in a morning. That is possible and a mistake. Here is the version that leaves you still enjoying it. Bagrati Cathedral sits on Ukimerioni Hill above the city, and the reason to go is as much the view over the Rioni and the rooftops as the eleventh-century church itself. It is a short drive or a steady walk up from the centre. Half an hour, unless the light is good, in which case longer. Gelati is the one that matters. Founded in 1106 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was a monastery and an academy, and its mosaics and frescoes are among the finest surviving in the Caucasus. Allow an hour at least. The interior is dim, so go when the sun is high enough to reach through the windows — early afternoon is better than early morning. Shoulders covered, and women may want a scarf. Motsameta is ten minutes further down a side road, much smaller, and set on a cliff above a bend in the river. It takes twenty minutes and is often almost empty, which after Gelati is exactly what you want. The order matters: Bagrati first for the overview of the city, then Gelati while your attention is fresh, then Motsameta for the setting rather than the building. Total, with driving, about four hours. All three are awkward without a car — Gelati and Motsameta are outside the city on roads with little public transport. We run this exact route as a half-day tour, or rent you the car to do it at your own pace.